Celebrity Life

After holding the reins at Henry for two years, British nose-to-tail chef Nate Green has allied himself with the group behind Octavium for a “contemporary European” restaurant.

Seven years after landing in Hong Kong, Nate Green has at long last opened a restaurant in Central. The British veteran, whose CV includes such stalwarts as 22 Ships, Ham & Sherry and Rhoda, has plied his brand of focused, produce-led cooking across the city’s vast urban gestalt, but his latest (and arguably most personal) venture sees him digging in at a cavernous space beneath Des Voeux Road, marking a much-delayed, highly anticipated return to the world of local restaurant groups.

Having steered Henry – Rosewood Hong Kong’s preeminent eatery for meaty, smokehouse-inspired fare – through a two-year gauntlet marked by political turmoil and the Coronavirus outbreak, Green confides that in 2021 he felt ready to realise his vision for a modern, grillroom-inspired restaurant.

“For a long time, working in a ‘grill’ or ‘steakhouse’ wasn’t desirable for chefs who aspired to be top-level,” says Green. “The prevailing viewpoint was that there simply wasn’t enough ‘kudos’ in something like that.”

With Rex Wine & Grill, however, Green appears determined to counter this narrative: championing, without an ounce of cognitive dissonance, generous platefuls of USDA prime alongside more chef-y creations that draw on his considerable talent for indirect cooking techniques. A month into opening, we grab a seat at the bar with Green and hear how he hopes that Rex will usher in a resurgence of the Grand Grill.

Having played a pivotal role in opening Henry and popularising the smokehouse concept, why did you feel now was the right moment to embark on a new project?

After working with hotel groups for three years, I came to realise I just didn’t belong in that sort of corporate environment. I hold strong opinions about a range of different subjects and always speak my mind. That, coupled with the fact that I’d achieved everything I set out to do with Henry, convinced me it was time for a change.

That’s not to say I didn’t enjoy learning about and bringing to fruition the “American smokehouse” concept, but Rex presents me with the opportunity to put what I feel is the best representation of my cuisine in front of diners. Without wanting to sound wanky, that means modern European food, prepared with a strong nose-to-tail mantra, from the best produce that we can realistically source whole.

Rex is billed as combining Italian flair with American opulence. How will that translate for your diners?

We’ve evolved that concept since I came aboard. The foundation of the cuisine is definitely modern European, but when we use the phrase “American opulence” we’re talking about generosity: real cooking, not piddly little portions. Then, the “Italian flair” is a reference to the level of hospitality being redolent of the great grillrooms of continental Europe. We aren’t necessarily talking about the food that’s going on the plate – there won’t be eight pasta courses on the menu. In fact, early on, one of the first points Octavo management and I agreed on was that we didn’t need another regional Italian concept.

What we’re envisioning is a return to the era of the Grand Grill, in the vein of parliamentary canteens at The Savoy or The Dorchester in London. We want the beauty and attention to detail of traditional European service to come through: whether that’s in the shape of our silver, stemware, or the substantial number of dishes prepared tableside.

Your new venue shares a name and certain stylistic touchpoints with Mauro Vincenti’s pioneering LA restaurant Rex il Ristorante. What inspired you to resurrect such a piece of America’s dining history in Hong Kong?

In a way, Rex is a tribute to chef Umberto Bombana. Back in 1983, Rex in LA was the first restaurant Bombana helmed and his experiences there eventually led him to Hong Kong, where we met. That was an important connection to celebrate when we were discussing what the restaurant should be called.

We also wanted to explore the American restaurant scene as it existed in the 1970s and 1980s, pinpointing what the height of sophistication was during those eras. Many people forget that the idea of an “American” culinary identity, forged by chefs like Jeremiah Tower and Alice Waters, didn’t develop until much later – French and Italian cuisine were the two dominant influences for a long time. If anything, my cooking at Rex shares a certain affinity with modern British cuisine: beyond the “nationality” of our ingredients, we’re interested in the conditions they were produced in and the personalities behind them.

As you’re one of the foremost proponents of nose-to-tail dining in the city, how can we expect your passion for that to take flight at Rex?

Our aim is to keep the menu quite small, populating it with satisfying, classic dishes you’d expect to see at a grillroom-inspired restaurant. On top of that, we offer a house-made sausage; maybe a ragout of lamb shoulder – all of which will be done as specials – and when they’re gone, they’re gone. The way that the menu is set up allows us to utilise almost the entirety of an animal. Even in those situations when we don’t source a whole cow, we’re still championing offal cookery: liver, kidneys and sweetbreads, nothing goes to waste.

Was the decision to compose a shorter signature menu in part to encourage diners to explore the list of specials? To consume a wider variety of dishes?

I’ve always thought the best way to build a menu is to have steady à la carte options, supplemented by a few seasonal dishes. Our aim with Rex is to build a clientèle that includes a core of regulars who come all the time. You can’t sustain a restaurant like this around a business model of “one and done” – though, sadly, that’s an extremely popular attitude among many Hong Kong operators.

I also feel the idea of a steak is fairly self-contained. If you go to dinner for crispy-skinned chicken, you’re not going to order it at a Peking duck restaurant – you’re going to go somewhere that’s best-known for its chicken. Obviously, there’ll always be one or two diners who aren’t like that, but over time our aim is for them to feel so familiar with us that we’re like their canteen. By that, I mean they can be assured they’ll find something delicious on the menu, even if what that is changes weekly.

There’s less wastage, the ingredients we use maintain their optimal freshness, and my team stays engaged because they’re constantly seeing and learning new dishes.

What role will sustainability play in the creation of your new menu and the physical spaces at the restaurant?

I’m always looking at the impact of whatever we buy and use in the restaurant. I don’t think it’s controversial to say that we work in a damaging industry: there’s food waste, plastics and the destructive effect that comes with producing food on an industrial scale. What we need – and it’s something I’m proud we’re doing here at Rex – is a greater willingness to utilise whole animals. Another commitment we’ve made is re-writing our lunch menu every day, which means we can prepare a lot of the larger items that need to be broken down in a succession of different ways.

In a restaurant scene already teeming with premium reserve lists, what aspects of Rex’s beverage programme will be most exciting for seasoned drinkers?

We’ve approached it sensibly. The calibre of the wine list is comparable to what you’ll find at our sister restaurant, Octavium. For cocktails, we’ve kept it along the lines of “really good classics”, albeit with a subtle twist. We’re also specialising more on after-dinner tipples – categories that I personally really enjoy, like whisky and digestifs.

Our killer feature, however, is the wine-locker system: we have 100 available for diners to rent, which is something you don’t often see outside of private members’ clubs. Nothing encourages repeat visits like having a couple of your own bottles on-hand – it’s an opportunity to give our guests exactly what they enjoy.

Considering how diners are becoming increasingly restrictive in their dietary choices, are there elements of the menu that will appeal to those with less carnivorous appetites?

We’re in the business of hospitality. If I’m cooking for a table of 10, there’s a good chance two of those diners will only eat fish, be vegetarian … I’ve got no issue with that. But instead of composing a fully vegan menu, I’d much prefer to come to your table, ask what you enjoy, and prepare something around the seasonal veggies we have available. It’s such a cop-out to say, “You’re a vegetarian? Right, your choice is either salad or gnocchi.” Often, vegetables are where you can afford the most creativity: you can blend them, bake them, pickle them. When you think about a “composed” dish at a Michelin-star restaurant, the plate itself is around 60 percent vegetables. I love that.

Is it necessary for certain elements in the classic steakhouse concept to be “modernised”, so as to better reflect Hongkongers’ dining preferences?

If not, why do you think the traditional idea of a restaurant specialising in wine and steaks has remained so celebrated? Put simply, I think steakhouses are easy for most diners to understand. Whether it’s a business meal or a big celebratory occasion, you don’t necessarily know if everybody at the table is going to enjoy a composed tasting menu. But guess what? Nine out of 10 people are going to love steak. And the beauty of steak is you can make it as simple or complicated as you like. Where I felt Henry was most successful was on the side dishes: we offered 14 of them, and they all went beyond the settled notion of simple accompaniments. You could order a handful of those and not even consider steak.

At Rex, even though we’re working with many of the techniques of a traditional steakhouse, we also add an element of our own creativity: whether it’s a smoked eel and roasted beetroot, a blue cheese bearnaise, or toothfish with artichokes and preserved lemon. I mean, there’s no universal rule that says you have to serve a prawn cocktail in a martini glass, so why not play around with it? A steakhouse is no different – it’s all about paying homage to the classics, with a fresh perspective.

The post Chef Nate Green on REX Wine & Grill, Modern Steakhouses and His Restaurant Values appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

While 2020 has been a very tough year for restaurants and bars all over the world, Hong Kong's resilient dining scene has graced us with some remarkable new concepts. From French comfort food to elevated Indian cuisine, here's our selection of Hong Kong's best new restaurants that opened their doors throughout the past year.

CHAAT

One of the latest additions to the Rosewood Hong Kong's vibrant culinary offering, CHAAT celebrates the bold and authentic flavours of India’s street food, accompanied by cocktails influenced by spice traders. Celebrated Chef Manav Tuli's elevated family-style feast includes a wide selection of snacks, curries, biryanis and tandooris, served in a chic and trendy environment.

CHAAT, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3891 8732

Andō

Helmed by Argentian Chef-Founder Agustin Balbi, Andō’s name and menu are a tribute to Balbi's culinary heritage and experience. In Spanish, the word acts as the present participle – the act of doing, while in Japanese the word alludes to a sense of comfort. The dual meaning reflects the concept behind the restaurant, in which the chef masterfully fuses Japanese inspiration with his ancestral roots. Dishes like the Hamachi with leche de tigre, baby paprika and coriander perfectly represent Andō's unique soul.

Andō, 1F, Somptueux Central, 52 Wellington St, Central; +852 9161 8697

Cobo House

This year, Cobo House reopened as a fine dining establishment helmed by seasoned chefs Ray Choi & Chef Devon Hou at K11 Musea. The concept blends art and gastronomy through seasonal thematic tasting menus. The word Cobo is emblematic of Bohemian lifestyle, and reinforces an unconventional experience where edible art is served and art pieces are showcased for guests to experience and appreciate. Dishes like the a reinvented and elevated version of the classic Peranakan dish Laksa, part of the Spices and Aromas tasting menu, are an examples of the eatery's vibrant and international influences.

Cobo House, 6/F, K11 Musea, 18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 2656 3088

22 Ships

Newly-refreshed Spanish restaurant 22 Ships, helmed by veteran of modern Iberian cuisine Antonio Oviedo, serves rustic and refined recipes that don't compromise on authenticity. From the traditions of the Basque Country to Andalusia, the hearty selection of tapas and main dishes fuses the the homey and bold flavours of a Spanish taverna and the refined plating and service of a cosmopolitan eatery.

22 Ships, 22 Ship St, Wan Chai; +852 2555 0722

jean may

Helmed by chef Tiffany Lo, jean may explores and elevates casual dining à la Français to new heights, finally gracing Hong Kong with a trendy and memorable bistro. At jean may, cosy and insta-worthy interiors are combined with fragrant dishes like the razor clams with parsley and garlic, which showcases its team technique and experience.

jean may, Shop A, 14 Gresson St, Wan Chai; +852 3590 6033

The post Best New Restaurants in Hong Kong That Opened in 2020 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

2020 has been a very tough year for the hospitality industry in Hong Kong and all over the world. Throughout the pandemic, however, the city's bars and restaurants have showed remarkable resilience and creativity and have continuously adapted and reinvented themselves. With the fourth wave of Covid-19 cases hitting the city just before Christmas, these top restaurants have come up with new lunch menus, delivery and take away options to make sure that they can continue to feed us and keep us company.

22 Ships

Recently revamped Spanish eatery 22 Ships, helmed by chef Antonio Oviedo, is offering a new weekend à la carte lunch menu featuring all its trendy revisitations of Iberian classics as well as take out and delivery options for walk in orders and via JIA Everywhere.

22 Ships, 22 Ship Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong; +852 2555 0722

AULIS

Aulis, Simon Rogan's intimate chef table experience in Hong Kong, has launched a new lunch set menu that includes refined Modern European delicacies like the Pigeon with red cabbage and blackberry and the acclaimed Truffle Pudding. The menu is available for one session from Tuesday to Friday and on Saturday for two sessions (12.30 and 3.30).

AULIS by Simon Rogan, UG08, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay; +852 2817 8383

The Diplomat

Acclaimed speakeasy cocktail bar The Diplomat has launched the new 3 Martini Lunch promotion, welcoming guests to dine on a refined menu of pub grub and cocktails all day long. Additionally, the bar is offering a premium Cocktails To-Go bottled cocktail service, created to enjoy professionally mixed cocktails at home. To celebrate the festive seasons, The Diplomat is also bringing some much-needed festive cheer in the form of 12 Days of Cocktails, an advent calendar that offers guests the opportunity to enjoy special Christmas-themed cocktails at home until December 25th.

The Diplomat, Shop 1, LG/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger St, Central; +852 3619 0302

Écriture

Two Michelin star French restaurant Écriture has relaunched Écriture A La Maison, a take out and delivery service that features set menus for two or four guests. Highlights of the sets include the famed Caviar & Uni Tart, the Line Caught Brittany Turbot and the Bresse Chicken.

Écriture, 26/F H Queen's, 80 Queen's Road Central, Central; +852 2795 5996

Bayfare Social

Pan Mediterranean concept Bayfare Social at Rosewood Hong Kong, which blends elements of Spanish cuisines and Asian influences, is offering a new selection of take out and delivery options through Deliveroo as well as catering packages and an à la carte menu for dining in from Tuesday to Sunday (12-6pm).

Bayfare Social, 5/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3891 8732

Tate Dining Room

Vicky Lau's Michelin-starred elegant take on innovative French cuisine Tate Dining Room is offering a new festive lunch menu featuring delicacies like the Spiced Oil Confit Vension with Peppercorn Sauce and Aubergine. Additionally, newly opened lifestyle and gourmet boutique Date by Tate offers plenty of original and elegant takeaway options, like the very intagrammable Gastronomy Gourmet Boxes.

Tate Dining Room, G/F, 210 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong; +852 2555 2172

Castellana

Italian restaurant Castellana has made some of its popular Piedmontese delicacies available for takeout and delivery. Additionally, the restaurant offers a new festive set lunch menu with Alba white truffle also available from Monday to Saturday with special openings on Sundays from December 20th to January 3rd. Castellana has also recently launched an online store with exclusive Italian products, Owl of Minerva.

Castellana, 10/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay; +852 3188 5028

La Rambla by Catalunya

La Rambla's famed Catalonian feasts are now available for delivery and take out through La Rambla@Home and Deliveroo. Options include dinner and sharing sets featuring signatures like the Avocado Lobster, Seafood Paella and Pan De Cristal Con Tomato. Additionally, the restaurant is also offering lunch from Monday to Saturday and all-day brunch on Sunday.

La Rambla by Catalunya, 8 finance st. 3071-73 Level 3, ifc mall, Central; +852 2661 1161

Duddells

Micheline-starred restaurant Duddells has made some of its sumptuous Cantonese banquets available for delivery and take out via JIA Everywhere. Some of these season's special include the decadent and refined winter claypot dishes, such as the Lamb with Winter Bamboo Shoots and Winter Mushrooms and Chinese Preserved Meat Clay Pot Rice.

Duddells, Level 3 Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St, Central; +852 2525 9191

Penicillin and Dead&

Penicillin, Hong Kong's first sustainable bar that recently opened in the heart of SoHo and its sister bar Dead&, both by industry legends Agung Prabowo and Roman Ghale, have launched new takeaway offerings and new opening hours. Penicillin is now offering bottled cocktails available for delivery (upon spending a minimum amount) and grab and go as well as new service hours for food and drinks from 2 to 6pm. DEAD &’s 250ml cocktails are also now available to sip and enjoy at home alongside mouth-watering signature food items like the Dead Dog and the &Wings.

Penicillin, Amber Lodge, L/G, 23 Hollywood Rd, Central; +852 9880-7995

Dead&, G/F, 18 Wo On Lane, Lan Kwai Fong, Central; +852 +852 9886 5711

Simon Rogan at Home

Following the latest restrictions, Simon Rogan’s Michelin-starred Roganic Hong Kong has brought back its award- winning delivery and takeaway service, Simon Rogan at Home. The new 3-course menu features festive delights such as roast turkey and Caramelised chestnut and celeriac soup with hazelnut.

Roganic, Sino Plaza, UG/F 08, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay; +852 2817 8383

The post Here’s How You Can Continue to Eat at These Top Restaurants This December appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

2020 has been a very tough year for the hospitality industry in Hong Kong and all over the world. Throughout the pandemic, however, the city's bars and restaurants have showed remarkable resilience and creativity and have continuously adapted and reinvented themselves. With the fourth wave of Covid-19 cases hitting the city just before Christmas, these top restaurants have come up with new lunch menus, delivery and take away options to make sure that they can continue to feed us and keep us company.

22 Ships

Recently revamped Spanish eatery 22 Ships, helmed by chef Antonio Oviedo, is offering a new weekend à la carte lunch menu featuring all its trendy revisitations of Iberian classics as well as take out and delivery options for walk in orders and via JIA Everywhere.

22 Ships, 22 Ship Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong; +852 2555 0722

AULIS

Aulis, Simon Rogan's intimate chef table experience in Hong Kong, has launched a new lunch set menu that includes refined Modern European delicacies like the Pigeon with red cabbage and blackberry and the acclaimed Truffle Pudding. The menu is available for one session from Tuesday to Friday and on Saturday for two sessions (12.30 and 3.30).

AULIS by Simon Rogan, UG08, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay; +852 2817 8383

The Diplomat

Acclaimed speakeasy cocktail bar The Diplomat has launched the new 3 Martini Lunch promotion, welcoming guests to dine on a refined menu of pub grub and cocktails all day long. Additionally, the bar is offering a premium Cocktails To-Go bottled cocktail service, created to enjoy professionally mixed cocktails at home. To celebrate the festive seasons, The Diplomat is also bringing some much-needed festive cheer in the form of 12 Days of Cocktails, an advent calendar that offers guests the opportunity to enjoy special Christmas-themed cocktails at home until December 25th.

The Diplomat, Shop 1, LG/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger St, Central; +852 3619 0302

Écriture

Two Michelin star French restaurant Écriture has relaunched Écriture A La Maison, a take out and delivery service that features set menus for two or four guests. Highlights of the sets include the famed Caviar & Uni Tart, the Line Caught Brittany Turbot and the Bresse Chicken.

Écriture, 26/F H Queen's, 80 Queen's Road Central, Central; +852 2795 5996

Bayfare Social

Pan Mediterranean concept Bayfare Social at Rosewood Hong Kong, which blends elements of Spanish cuisines and Asian influences, is offering a new selection of take out and delivery options through Deliveroo as well as catering packages and an à la carte menu for dining in from Tuesday to Sunday (12-6pm).

Bayfare Social, 5/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3891 8732

Tate Dining Room

Vicky Lau's Michelin-starred elegant take on innovative French cuisine Tate Dining Room is offering a new festive lunch menu featuring delicacies like the Spiced Oil Confit Vension with Peppercorn Sauce and Aubergine. Additionally, newly opened lifestyle and gourmet boutique Date by Tate offers plenty of original and elegant takeaway options, like the very intagrammable Gastronomy Gourmet Boxes.

Tate Dining Room, G/F, 210 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong; +852 2555 2172

Castellana

Italian restaurant Castellana has made some of its popular Piedmontese delicacies available for takeout and delivery. Additionally, the restaurant offers a new festive set lunch menu with Alba white truffle also available from Monday to Saturday with special openings on Sundays from December 20th to January 3rd. Castellana has also recently launched an online store with exclusive Italian products, Owl of Minerva.

Castellana, 10/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay; +852 3188 5028

La Rambla by Catalunya

La Rambla's famed Catalonian feasts are now available for delivery and take out through La Rambla@Home and Deliveroo. Options include dinner and sharing sets featuring signatures like the Avocado Lobster, Seafood Paella and Pan De Cristal Con Tomato. Additionally, the restaurant is also offering lunch from Monday to Saturday and all-day brunch on Sunday.

La Rambla by Catalunya, 8 finance st. 3071-73 Level 3, ifc mall, Central; +852 2661 1161

Duddells

Micheline-starred restaurant Duddells has made some of its sumptuous Cantonese banquets available for delivery and take out via JIA Everywhere. Some of these season's special include the decadent and refined winter claypot dishes, such as the Lamb with Winter Bamboo Shoots and Winter Mushrooms and Chinese Preserved Meat Clay Pot Rice.

Duddells, Level 3 Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St, Central; +852 2525 9191

Penicillin and Dead&

Penicillin, Hong Kong's first sustainable bar that recently opened in the heart of SoHo and its sister bar Dead&, both by industry legends Agung Prabowo and Roman Ghale, have launched new takeaway offerings and new opening hours. Penicillin is now offering bottled cocktails available for delivery (upon spending a minimum amount) and grab and go as well as new service hours for food and drinks from 2 to 6pm. DEAD &’s 250ml cocktails are also now available to sip and enjoy at home alongside mouth-watering signature food items like the Dead Dog and the &Wings.

Penicillin, Amber Lodge, L/G, 23 Hollywood Rd, Central; +852 9880-7995

Dead&, G/F, 18 Wo On Lane, Lan Kwai Fong, Central; +852 +852 9886 5711

Simon Rogan at Home

Following the latest restrictions, Simon Rogan’s Michelin-starred Roganic Hong Kong has brought back its award- winning delivery and takeaway service, Simon Rogan at Home. The new 3-course menu features festive delights such as roast turkey and Caramelised chestnut and celeriac soup with hazelnut.

Roganic, Sino Plaza, UG/F 08, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay; +852 2817 8383

The post Here’s How You Can Continue to Eat at These Top Restaurants This December appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

After serving elevated cuisine in Asia for eight years, executive chef Antonio Oviedo recently started something of a buzzing revolution at 22 Ships in Wanchai.

When the Jia Group decided to refresh its intimate restaurant-cum-bar, as well as a brightening its interior it also installed Oviedo, a veteran of some of the greatest teams in Spanish and modern cuisine, along with his newly picked team.

“I started to develop the new concept for 22 Ships in May,” says Madrid-raised Oviedo. “We wanted to have a place that’s like a real Spanish tapas bar, with aperitifs and fresh dishes that change all the time – to bring all the bites from Madrid and other cities where this scene serves super stuff, and to source premium ingredients from the greater area of Spain.

[caption id="attachment_212250" align="aligncenter" width="567"] Antonio Oviedo is the new executive chef at 22 Ships.[/caption]

“We’re trying to be authentic,” he says; “I think there’s a lack of authenticity in some restaurants here – not only Spanish ones. They try to change dishes for the local palate; that’s cool, but then you lose the [genuine] concept.”

Oviedo, whose initial foray into the Hong Kong dining scene began on his arrival from Singapore – he’d worked there as sous chef at the multi-awarded European-style restaurant Iggy’s, and as group executive chef at Una and The Garage – does concede to the regional preference for less salt in savoury dishes. In fact, he says, “In our seafood paellas we get so much flavour from ancient recipes using roasted lobster heads, tomatoes, almonds and dried peppers in the stock that we don’t need any salt at all.”

On the evening I visit, a paella of ultra-red-shelled Mediterranean Carabineros prawn with salmorreta sauce (a pungent paste recipe from Alicante, comprising dried ñora pepper, olive oil, garlic, parsley and tomato) has the requisite wow-factor intensity of flavour and umami quality – and all without salt. Rotated seafood rice-pan regulars include blue lobster with salmorreta, and grilled octopus with black ink-enhanced grains.

[caption id="attachment_212241" align="aligncenter" width="765"] Carabinero paella with salmorreta.[/caption]

To help ensure both kitchen quality and an upbeat vibe with diners, Oviedo enlisted Nick Gellon, a former staffer in his previous private kitchen and catering operation. “It was in the middle of the pandemic and Nick was working in Switzerland,” explains Ovivedo, “so it was very difficult to bring him over, but he made it five days before we opened. That was a relief, as it’s difficult to find committed people.”

A chalk board announces the restaurant’s frequently changing specials, from snacks to tapas, mains, cheeses and vermouth sodas, many of which have a contemporary savoury edge. The intimate yet vibrant new interior provides a backdrop to an open-kitchen bar counter, a prime spot to watch and engage with the new culinary and bar team. Around the counter and dining-room tables, restaurant manager and sommelier Alice Douine offers accessible information on wines, citric-foam topped white or red glasses of sangria and house- made spirit infusions.

[caption id="attachment_212242" align="alignnone" width="1024"] Bar-style seating at 22 Ships.[/caption]

With authentic flavours being served, then what – one might wonder – has the local palate best responded to in the few months since opening? “For the Hong Kong locals, the uni [sea urchin] and suckling pig have been very popular,” says Oviedo, enthusiastically. “They love both of these – and all seafood.” He’s referring specifically to the restaurant’s Rusa and sea urchin on toast, and the roast suckling pig – a large main-course sharing platter. Rusa refers to Spain’s popular potato-based “Russian salad”, sometimes featuring seafood, of which 22 Ships presents a very refined take.

When it comes to seafood, few dishes could be more Spanish than anchovies and sardines – though here they’re served with finesse. Take the cold ajo blanco almond-and-garlic soup, for instance, served with sliced Muscat grapes, just as it is in Malaga; Oviedo, however, tops it with grilled sardines, also enjoyed in the same region, adding herb- and spice-infused floating green and red drops to the white liquid for flavoursome and visual effect. Marcona almonds were originally brought to Spain by Tunisian and other immigrants from North Africa, who introduced the soup. Boletus mushroom and béchamel sauce croquettes have an airier quality than many served in Spain and are topped with fine aged Ibérico ham.

[gallery ids="212248,212244,212247,212243"]

Oviedo has bolstered the selection of small-production cold cuts – Ibérico hams and salamis – and cheeses, many of which are unpasteurised and all of which result from a tireless sourcing process. These can be enjoyed as a prelude to dinnertime during la hora del vermut (“vermouth hour”), where cocktails, wine, citric-foam-topped sangria and house vermouth sodas are served with prepared snacks and tapas. Oviedo thinks this Spanish habit isn’t truly replicated anywhere else in town – note that there’s no lunch service here: with dinner preparations from scratch beginning around noon and lasting six to eight hours, there’s simply no time.

Back to the small plates for dinner, a moreish starter dish is the Rubia beef tartare, made with prized meat from north-western Galicia that’s aged for more than 90 days; its lasting robust flavour makes Douine’s wine pairing with the Catalonian 2018 Xarel-lo Ca N’Estruc, L’Equilibrista, an intriguing one: a young white wine with such structure and length that it was in perfect balance with the seasoned aged raw red meat.

This grape – it’s a key component in Cava – also goes well with the house signature main of suckling pig with grilled gem lettuce and pomegranate. Like the Manchego lamb-shoulder main, the pork is slow-roasted for 24 hours and the meat falls off the bone. With the delicate lamb, Ninja de las Uvas, a light 2018 Garnacha (Grenache) red from the Bullas region by natural wine-maker Julia Casado, is a perfect match.

[gallery ids="212245,212249"]

Try to save room for dessert. The Basque cheesecake uses sheep’s- milk Idiazabal, a smoked cheese produced close to Oviedo’s father’s birthplace in Navarre. The smokiness of the cheese is further enhanced by being baked in a charcoal oven. For a lighter finish, lemon sorbet blended with Cava is zingy with a slight granita-like texture, topped with soft meringue. Both these sweets are ample for two to share.

Oviedo has certainly worked with some of the past and present greats of Spanish cuisine. So what stays with him from his time working with late Santi Santamaria – known for his classic Spanish recipes – and the Roca brothers – who helped elevate the nation’s modern culinary repertoire for years? “Santi Santamaria had a great traditional knowledge; his background was training in French cooking, so his way of thinking was very well organised,” recalls Oviedo. “I learned a lot about details in preparation from him. The Roca brothers were my first real chance to experiment with traditional Spanish dishes and bringing other ingredients and techniques into Spanish food.”

[caption id="attachment_212246" align="alignnone" width="900"] Basque cheesecake.[/caption]

Lessons didn’t stop there. Oviedo was also able to garner insights from other highly regarded kitchen heads and their teams. But his involvement and memories of cooking stretch back to childhood. “When I grew up, time was always spent around the kitchen table – I peeled garlic from a young age to help my mother. My grandmother, who was from the north of Spain, taught my mum how to cook some dishes. My mum came from the south, so this gave her an amazing selection of recipes. And the concept I have here of multi-regional tapas came from that.”

It’s been tough opening in summer 2020, but the plan remains just as it was at the start. “We opened in the middle of the third wave of Covid, so we’re still on our first menu, but we change two or three dishes every day,” assures Oviedo. “Sometimes the staff get mad at me because I try a new dish during preparation and then put it on the menu 30 minutes before we open – so we have quick training on it all together. But that’s what we’re about and I can see people are appreciating our produce and new ideas.”

The post Chef Antonio Oviedo on Dishing Out Hearty Tapas and Pursuing Authenticity at 22 Ships appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

The Ships' return.

As one of Hong Kong's favourite tapas restaurants, 22 Ships is back in the neighbourhood with a fresh look and new chef in tow, Madrid-native Antonio Oviedo, who presents a fresher and more honest take on Spanish flavours. The bustling tapas bar sits in the same space of Wan Chai's Ship Street and remains casual and convivial as it always was. What has changed is the brand new menu, and the way in which chef has brought the flavours and spirit of Spain to our city, saving you a trip to Madrid altogether.

The restaurant's revamp gives the old haunt a whole new vibe, while maintaining that easy-going 22 Ships charm we've loved all these years. The best seat in the house is still the open kitchen counter, which is in clear view of the team in action. Now, it's topped with a pale pink marble top, which feels fresher and brighter while the rest of the interior shows off painted brick walls with dark bottle green tiles, warmed by light peachy coral. A large greenboard at the back showcases the menu, with specials handwritten on the daily, and a semi al fresco element with wooden frame panels opens up the space further, echoing the best of Spain's tapas bars.

Chef Antonio Oviedo has worked with some of Spain’s top chefs including Catalan chef Santi Santamaria and the collective genius of the Roca Brothers. At 22 Ships, he has created a menu filled with timeless, yet modern, multi-regional tapas alongside premium chacinas (cold cuts) and quesos (cheeses). All ingredients are directly sourced from small-scale producers in Spain where possible and chosen for their quality. The menu is paired with a robust drink menu that features Spanish wines, sangrias and street-social style drinks, such as sherry or (my own personal favourite) vermouth mingled with homemade sodas, flavours and seasonings. During the buzz of the restaurant's comeback, we took a moment to chat with Oviedo to find out how he's steering the ship and what we can expect.

Why did you decide to come to Hong Kong after spending most of your time as a chef in Madrid and Singapore?
To work in Asia is a dream for any chef; when I had the opportunity to move to Singapore I didn’t have any doubt about it. After five years in Singapore, I developed a few different Spanish concepts and gained a lot of knowledge in Asian cuisine during my time at [Singapore’s fine dining establishment] Iggy’s, so I was more than ready to explore a new city in Asia. I decided to come to Hong Kong as I was attracted by the city's modern, yet authentic and classic style. This is one of the cities with the highest density of restaurants, as well as an amazing dining scene surrounded by wild nature. The place I’ve always wanted to be .

What are you bringing to Hong Kong ?
I’m bringing the bar vibes that you can find in places such as Chamberi, La Latina, and Huertas, among other neighbourhoods in Madrid where a bar opens in a street and makes it famous -- attracting other tapas bars and bodegas, which is exactly what 22 Ships did for Wan Chai's restaurant scene.

Have you had to adapt your menu for Hong Kong? 
Not really. I try to cook real Spanish cuisine at 22 Ships. We use local products and Hong Kong favourites such as Hokkaido sea urchin. But I think people appreciate authenticity, and when customers say that your food just brought them back to Spain, it is the best compliment you can ever receive.

What do you love about tapas?
What I like about tapas is the variety and the sharing concept behind it. My background is more fine dining than traditional, but nowadays, the concept of fine dining is a bit distorted. At 22 Ships, people order their own tasting menus and choose different drink pairing for each tapa.

Any favourite dishes to highlight?
I encourage people to come and try our dishes to help them to decide which ones can be our signatures as we are having a lot of good feedback for all of them. I guess the Burnt basque cheesecake is still the winner, for now. However, if I have to highlight something it will be our chalkboard, since we don’t have a printed menu, which always has a bunch of specials on it and is changing everyday.

On the subject of highlights, I took it upon myself to see what's on the menu and found a few favourites of my own.

To start, I recommend to snack on pintxos such as the Gilda skewer with deeply flavoured smoked sardines and piquant piparras, or Vermut gordal olives which pair the large green globes with a vermouth gel, brightened with fresh lemon zest. Then indulge in the Rusa and sea urchin on toast which may seem like an unlikely match, but work seamlessly on the palate, bringing sweetness and umami atop a crispy toast. Another worthy try is the Sardines in Ajoblanco, a chilled almond and garlic soup, topped with grapes which is perfect for summer.

For larger platos, which are great to share, the Blue lobster salmorreta paella is my first pick. Packed full of flavour with perfectly cooked bomba rice and a whole lobster on top, it's certainly a crowd-pleaser. Meanwhile, traditionalists will likely order and almost definitely enjoy the Roasted suckling pig, where a classic recipe sees the hog slow-cooked for 24 hours before roasting, ensuring tender meat that falls off the bone.

Finally, desserts such as Apricot and Palo Cortado sherry, with clarified coffee ice cream will pique interests, while a luscious little Idiazabal Basque cheesecake ends on a smooth and velvety note.

The new 22 Ships will continue to offer a no reservation and no service charge policy to encourage spontaneity. Overall, the Ships' return is a very welcome one and I can't wait to visit again soon, even if I have to wait.

The post 22 Ships Makes a Comeback with New Chef, Fresh Look and Flavourful Tapas appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Whether you're in Hong Kong or Lisbon, we've got you covered on where to go for the best bite-sized dishes.

The post 5 Best Tapas Spots appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.