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Spring/Summer 2019 Menswear Show Notes From The Front Row

Observations from the shows; the playlist you should download; and intel to drop on your friends so they’ll be clamouring for your fashion-insider goss.

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Eternal Elegance

Take any chapter in the rich history of Giorgio Armani and behold the timeless, seemingly effortless elegance that transcends the epoch his outfits were born into. In the ’70s he brought power dressing to leading ladies on screen (reflect on how he dressed Diane Keaton); in the ’80s he relaxed that silhouette with softer fabrics (sure, he worked the shoulder pads, but he made the jackets in velvet for Jodie Foster); in the ’90s, he singlehandedly transformed Oscar red-carpet dressing by eschewing Vegas-style-sequins, feathers and costume jewellery for aesthetically impeccable ensembles and diamonds. As he famously said of dressing leading ladies for the red carpet, “She will not regret what she is wearing when she looks at pictures of herself in the press the next day. Or even next year.”

[caption id="attachment_137512" align="alignnone" width="3543"] Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2019[/caption]

Or even next decade, as hindsight now reveals. Armani refrained from being trendy, opting for classic. Fads meant nothing to him as he focused on the eternal, putting the pow into power dressing with his signature style. This season however, he’s gone for a gentler, ethereal silhouette.

Enhanced by the use of “liquid” fabrics and aquatic colours, the latest collection is based on an abstract inspiration: a game of refractions created by a ray of light on a body of water. To that end, Armani uses fine lines and materials for clothing that envelops the body and flows with the silhouette, resulting in an impression of soft and gentle elegance.

The liquid effect is reproduced in organza and translucent materials, blended together and overlapping, with ruffles and layers in subtle, delicate hues: metallic greys, silky pastels, pale blues, with touches of pinks and bright greens. The overall effect is one of iridescent and poetic elegance: fragility full of strength.

[caption id="attachment_137507" align="alignnone" width="3744"] Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2019[/caption]

“Collection after collection, I hone the idea of soft elegance,” Armani says from his studio. “This season the challenge has been to transpose the mutability of the shape and colour of water into garments and accessories. I achieved this effect with subtle but firm fabrics, using linear constructions and a masterly play on lightweight overlays and glossy embroidery.”

On this journey, the Giorgio Armani woman finds strength in gossamer grace and apparent fragility. Armani was about power dressing. Now, he dresses the empowered.


Giorgio Armani's Essential Spring/Summer Accessories

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Beauty Trends from the Spring/Summer 2019 Runways

As global beauty director of luxury retailer Net-A-Porter, Newby Hands has her finger on the pulse of the hottest fashion trends as well as the latest skincare and make-up that women are adding to their carts. While “clean beauty” remains the category du jour -- “sales have grown by more than 400 percent” since Net-A-Porter launched it at the end of 2017 -- it’s the looks dreamed up by make-up artists for the season’s fashion shows that continue to define the lipsticks, eye shadows and other colour cosmetics we just have to have.

[caption id="attachment_135941" align="alignnone" width="683"] Silky skin reigns at Giorgio Armani.[/caption]

“For the SS19 runways, I love McGrath’s look for Prada with ’60s feathered lashes and nude lips,” Hands says, referring to the influential make-up artist Pat McGrath whom top designers often entrust to bring their collections fully to life. “I also love the stunning winged look for the Versace runway. She used a metallic teal shade to create geometric wings, and kept the skin and lips simple to highlight the make-up of the eyes.”

Indeed, dramatic textures and colours were popular themes of the season: space-age silver eye shadows at Missoni, Swarovski-studded lash lines at Valentino, graphic swoops of eyeliner at Rochas and Marni, and spiky lashes paired with neon-bright lips at Chanel.

“Chanel’s girls always look strong and beautiful at the same time,” says global creative make-up and colour designer Lucia Pica of the make-up she created for the Chanel spring/summer ready-to-wear show. “In this collection you have a lot of inspiration in terms of textures and colours.”

Pica even took the idea for the bold lip hue -- Rouge Allure Velvet No72 Infrarose -- from one of the bags in the collection while creating a “glowy and sexy but still perfectly sophisticated” overall look to pair with the show’s beach-themed setting.

[inline-quote author="Newby Hands"]"I'm obsessed with the new shine-free skin texture -- it just looks so elegant. "[/inline-quote]

Glowy and sexy seemed to be the order of the day when it came to the models’ complexions. “This season, facialist skin has returned: a truly glowing, natural look,” says Hands, who recommends a long-wearing formula such as Hourglass’s Vanish Seamless Finish Foundation. “Concealer is also essential for extra coverage and wear. My top tip is to finish your base and concealer by using a kabuki brush to lightly buff all over the face. This gives make-up that seamless and natural finish, making it look like perfect skin as opposed to perfect make-up.”

[caption id="attachment_135939" align="alignnone" width="680"] Winged eyeliner at Versace.[/caption]

Pica achieved the Chanel look with the brand’s new Baume Essentiel highlighting balm in Sculpting and Transparent for a glossy finish, with just a bit of pink blush on the apples of the cheeks. She also blended the long- wearing concealer Le Correcteur de Chanel around the edges for a smooth, even complexion.

Lip colours this season ran the gamut from minimalist nudes at Dior and Stella McCartney to shimmering pink at Giorgio Armani and rose-tinted foil at Jeremy Scott. For Chanel, Pica layered the Rouge Allure Velvet lipstick with loose powder to get the bright, matt effect she wanted.

“Red will always be a classic,” Hands says when it comes to the dizzying array of lipstick choices this season. “It’s a timeless colour that makes a woman feel confident and powerful. Saying that, I would agree that many of our beauty customers who were initially buying red are certainly now venturing out and purchasing products in a variety of shades, with pink included.

[caption id="attachment_135943" align="alignnone" width="683"] A peachy glow at Fendi.[/caption]

“Nude pinks in particular are great options for women seeking a natural feminine look, and what’s great is you can wear them at any event, whether it’s during the daytime or in the evening,” she adds.

Such versatility is key when it comes to translating the make-up seen on the runways to something women can wear every day. “I always love the Tom Ford look, as it’s invariably one that translates so effortlessly into real life,”Hands says of the ever-elegant American brand that this season featured smokey eyes in shades of brown and barely there lips. “Also, I’m obsessed with the new shine- and gloss-free skin texture -- it just looks so elegant and polished.”

And if she could create her dream kit for the spring/summer season? “My perfect palette would have a skin base that gives this season’s velvety skin finish: not shiny, not matt. Plus, the new peachy toned nudes for eyes and cheeks and lip -- they’re so flattering to most skin tones,” Hands says. “Then to finish, a black mascara and the perfect matte red lip.”


 

Living Colour

Turn runway looks into reality with our picks from the spring/summer make-up collections.

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The 2019 Fall/Winter Trends in Menswear

Giorgio Armani continues to excite the world of fashion by overcoming codes and traditions in its Spring/Summer 2019 menswear collection. While still maintaining the brand’s sophisticated simplicity, this season incorporates a relaxed yet genteel aesthetic and encompasses a surprising versatility in its fabrics, patterns, cuts and palette.

 

Looks We Love

Relaxed Fit

Soft Hues

Graphic Lines 

 

Accessories Highlight

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Spring/Summer 2019 Show Notes From the Front Row

The new Show Notes pages offer a glimpse into what I jotted down during each collection. Every editor’s notebook is different, but then that’s why each magazine has its own mind, character and way of seeing the world. Here’s mine, now an open book, for you.

The post Spring/Summer 2019 Show Notes From the Front Row appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Works of Art: Spring/Summer Accessories

Loewe Balloon

For Jonathan Anderson -- creative director of Loewe -- fashion, art and craft are one and the same. His women’s spring/summer 2019 show at the historic Maison de l’Unesco building in Paris featured a series of restored mid-century rooms showcasing a variety of experiences that blended the three media.

Guests walked through a blur of spinning car-wash brushes by Lara Favaretto into a space displaying rustic woven baskets by Loewe Craft Prize finalist Joe Hogan before venturing into rooms filled with record players cradling ceramics by Ryoji Koie and overrun with floating soap bubbles.

The collection Anderson presented was equally striking, a rich blend of textures and silhouettes in an inky colour palette. Materials range from cotton muslin and exotic leathers to topstitched gabardine and ostrich feathers while voluminous shapes and asymmetric details provide added drama.

The accessories collection, meanwhile, pays tribute to Joe Hogan’s woven baskets with its extensive use of raffia, fringe and weaving.

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The Palm basket with hand-woven multi- coloured leather stripes or crystal detailing is a highlight of the range, while the Bunny, Gate and Mini Gate in raffia are perfect for summer evenings by the beach.

Other standouts of the season include the Balloon, a new bucket bag with an architecturally inspired design and striking asymmetric handle.

loewe.com

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Fashion trends: artisanal whimsy meets the great outdoors in this seasons newest looks

Two big style tropes come together for the latest hybrid trend with brands like Loewe and Japanese label Sacai

For more stories like this, visit www.thepeakmagazine.com.sg.

Photo Shoot: Get Into The Hype

Whether you reach for sporty separates or sleep tailoring, these spring/summer 2019 menswear trends all contain a dash of quirk -- be it the in-your-face logo, louche leather or short shorts -- thanks to a changing of the guard across heritage houses.


Photography Joel Low 

Fashion Direction Johnny Khoo

Styling Jacquie Ang

Grooming Rick Yang using Kiehl's and Revlon Professional

Photography Assistant Alfie Pan 

Fashion Assistant Jamie Lee 

Model Anthony Hernandez at Eve

The post Photo Shoot: Get Into The Hype appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

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